Today's Specials
He Said:
This ain’t no greasy spoon.
Diners have a certain gritty appeal, never more so than when the sun rises on the scorched earth of one of those NOLA celebrations that merge late night into early morning, if you know what I mean. We all have those give me something with bacon and get the hell out of my face days every now and then, right?
But for the more discriminating palate, might I suggest the best breakfast in New Orleans just may be on Hampson Street in Riverbend at Refuel Cafe?
That’s where you’ll find the post-Katrina creation of Guthrie Banks, who originally opened his place when he saw a need to feed construction workers swarming the neighborhood in 2006. Guthrie tells us he lost 100 pounds and at the same time gained new insights into the food he wanted to cook and serve. We didn’t know him in those days, so we can’t vouch for the 100 pounds, but I can tell you that it’s nice to see the owner running the joint in person, and that has been the case literally every single time we’ve entered Refuel (and there have been many).
There are two easy ways to spot Guthrie when you go: First, he’s the guy smiling at everyone, whether employee or customer, with whom he speaks (not a bad policy at all, come to think of it). And second, he is always nattily dressed, even at 8:00am. Guys, just look for the fella dressed better than you, and that’s Guthrie. Our last visit came after an hour or so of rooting around in the AC-free construction zone that currently passes for our house; to say we were dressed down would be charitable understatement. Guthrie of course let us know we were dressed exactly right; a side of graciousness with your eggs is indeed a good thing.
And, about those eggs: Here’s the deal. Those and everything that surrounds them, accompanies them (they do have bacon if you want it, of course), and goes into them are absolutely fresh, top quality, and free of any additives or preservatives. Fruit is fresh, often from Hollygrove Market. I double dog dare you to eat here and tell me you can’t taste the difference. More than anything else it is the obsessive attention to the quality of the ingredients based on the personal habits of the owner that sets Refuel apart. My favorite local iterations of both migas and huevos rancheros are always on the menu, as are sides of creamy slow-cooked real grits and fruit with flavor that leaps from the bowl. I’m sure I’ve eaten here at least fifteen times and never had even a marginal experience. This is one of the most consistent restaurants in town at any level.
As should be the case in any self-respecting morning establishment, the coffee is exceptional, whether you choose a latte, espresso, or any of the varieties of brewed joe (I suggest dark roast).
Refuel is counter-service. Walk up the stoop and inside, order at the counter, get your coffee, and grab a seat and take in the surroundings while you await your food.
If the musical analogue of the typical diner is blues, Refuel is jazz. Very friendly, but also very self-consciously designed. Every physical element, from the Suk Ja Kang artwork on the walls to the minimalist furniture and even the uncommonly heavy flatware speak to the guiding principle that the small things matter. There is nothing haphazard about this place.
My wife and I differ on breakfast to a small degree: She gives Refuel 4.5 stars and the much funkier Cake Café 5.0, top of her heap. I go the other way: 4.5 to Cake (which is indeed terrific) but top billing to Refuel. At the end of the day, I guess I’m just a jazz guy at heart.
Whether you’re more Howlin’ Wolf or Miles Davis is up to you, but Refuel is a gem, and one you need to add to your breakfast repertoire.
